DazeVlog

A world away from the cruise ships and all-inclusives, our writer goes island hopping through the eastern Caribbean, staying in small, characterful hotels

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Guadeloupe

Les Flamboyants

Doubles from €53 room-only
Les Flamboyants offers cheap and cheerful accommodation for the budget traveller – simply furnished self-catering apartments with en suite bathrooms and wifi. It’s a 10-minute walk from the gorgeous Caravelle beach and its fantastic reef, which is popular with snorkellers. You’ll find plenty more beautiful beaches on this flat, sandy side of the butterfly-shaped island of Guadeloupe, while the other “wing”, with its stunning volcanic landscapes, waterfalls and tropical forests, is a hiker’s paradise. Don’t miss the delicious bokit, a Guadeloupean fried sandwich – you’ll find it on the menu in plenty of local restaurants.
booking.com

Villa Rayon Vert

Doubles from €94 room-only
This classy family-run guesthouse, set on a hill with unobstructed views of the Caribbean, has four beautifully appointed rooms, with large private patios looking over the garden or the sea. There’s a large infinity pool, and the nearest beach is an 11-minute walk away. Just north of the villa is the Jardin Botanique de Deshaies , with its dazzling tropical flora and fauna, and a bit further north is the charming village of Deshaies, which has a good selection of restaurants, bars and small shops.
villa-rayon-vert.com

Carriacou

Grand View

Doubles from $70 room-only
Perched on a hill, the Grand View offers just that over Hillsborough, Carriacou’s sleepy main town, and the sea beyond. The 13-room hotel is built in contemporary Caribbean vernacular style, and each room is beautifully appointed, with TV, air-con or fan and en suite bathroom. Seven rooms offer kitchen facilities. Owner Shirley prepares simple but satisfying breakfasts on request, which are nice to have in the breezy gazebo by the dipping pool. There are restaurants, bars and beaches a short but steep downhill walk away in the town, where you can also find buses that will take you to other parts of this tiny island.
carriacougrandview.com

Mermaid Beach Hotel

Doubles from $107 room-only
Although Mermaid Beach Hotel is in the centre of Hillsborough, it also sits on one of the island’s loveliest beaches, where turtles can be seen laying their eggs. This newly renovated boutique hotel has 22 air-conditioned rooms with a fresh, modern feel. At the in-house restaurant, Callaloo, a must try is the curried lambi (AKA conch) and potato; the burger and fries is a standout too. The daily ferries to Petite Martinique and Grenada leave from just a few metres away.
mermaidhotelcarriacou.com

Marie-Galante

Le Soleil Levant

Doubles from €55 room-only
Enjoy a breakfast of croissants, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice by the infinity pool as you watch the sun rise over the Caribbean at the aptly named Le Soleil Levant (The Rising Sun). There are 30 rooms, furnished in a contemporary style, and fully equipped with kitchen, air-con and flat-screen TV, a restaurant serving local and French dishes, fitness centre and spa. The beautiful beach of Feuillère is within walking distance.
lesoleillevant.fr

Bequia

Keegan’s Beachside Hotel

Doubles from $80 B&B
At first sight, Keegan’s doesn’t look very impressive, but its understated charm begins to grow on you the moment you see its quaint and comfortable cottages, each of which has an en suite bathroom, air-con, cable TV and small balcony. The strong point is the bar/restaurant that overlooks one of the island’s best beaches, offers live entertainment and acts as a meeting place for visitors and locals alike. The island’s small town, Port Elizabeth, with several restaurants, boutiques and local craftsmen, is just 2½km away, reached via a picturesque boardwalk along the shore. Bequia itself is reached by ferry from Kingstown on St Vincent.
keegansbequia.org

St Lucia

Harmony Suites

Doubles from $111 room-only
It’s hard to believe that this peaceful hotel is located right in the heart of lively Rodney Bay. Surrounded by a lush tropical garden and just three minutes from the beach, this lovely complex offers 30 tropically styled self-catering rooms with large patios. Sun yourself by the pool, take an onsite yoga or Pilates class, visit the nearby boutiques, and explore Rodney Bay’s terrific nightlife in the evening. The hotel can arrange a rental car for you to explore the island, but really there’s no need; the local mini-buses are cheap, frequent and cover all the most popular areas.
harmonysuites.com

JJ’s Paradise Resort

Doubles from $91 room-only
JJ’s “shabby chic in the tropics” charm will appeal to the budget-conscious traveller. Tucked away at the bottom of a hillside in prestigious Marigot Bay, the property consists of 18 rooms and self-catering cottages. The restaurant serves local dishes, there is a pool and spa, and a water taxi takes guests the short distance to the other side of the bay, to shop, eat at the waterfront restaurants or just relax on the beach.
jjsparadise.com

Martinique

Habitation Desrosiers

Doubles from €83 room-only
Located in Martinique’s premier resort town of Les Trois-Îlets, Habitation Desrosiers has five modern and minimalist self-service apartments with en suite bathrooms, air-con and wifi. The hotel terrace has spectacular views of the surrounding bay and the capital, Fort-de-France. There are plenty of inexpensive restaurants and white sand beaches nearby, and be sure to take a boat tour with nearby Planète Dauphins to snorkel among dolphins in their natural habitat, then enjoy rum and cake on board.
habitationdesrosiers.com

Hôtel Résidence Océane

Doubles from €75 room-only
Surrounded by luxuriant gardens on a peninsula in the north-east of Martinique, Résidence Océane boasts breathtaking Atlantic views and plenty of unspoilt Creole charm. Each of its 24 rooms is air-conditioned, equipped for self-catering and has a large patio with garden or ocean views. Though the ocean is better for surfing than swimming, there’s a large pool here. You’ll need a car to get around Martinique, and the town of La Trinité, with restaurants and bars, is a 15-minute drive away.
residenceoceane.com

Grenada

Rumboat Retreat

Doubles from $99 room-only
Located above the fishing village of Gouyave, famous for its Friday night Fish Fry, Rumboat Retreat is set against a lush tropical background overlooking the Caribbean. The four rooms are simple but comfortable, and it’s just seven minutes’ walk to the beach, albeit down a steep incline. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with freshly caught fish, and vegetables, fruit and spices from the garden. The hotel has its own water taxi, which can whisk guests to the south of the island and into the capital, St George’s, in 15 minutes.
rumboatretreat.com

Cabier Ocean Lodge

Doubles from £86 room-only
Set on a promontory at the south-eastern end of Grenada, Cabier Ocean Lodge’s 15 rooms benefit from cooling breezes and enjoy unobstructed sea views. Cabier is rustic but comfortable, and there’s a first-class restaurant and bar. Try chef Florence’s “oil down”, Grenada’s national dish, a one-pot wonder of breadfruit and other vegetables, with salted meat, coconut milk and spices. Footpaths lead from the hotel to secluded sandy beaches and bays, and though the Lodge is quite remote, the staff are happy to organise day trips for guests.
cabier.com

Mayreau

Salt Whistle Bay

Doubles from $140 room-only (glamping tents from $80)
On lovely Mayreau, the Grenadines’ smallest inhabited island, Salt Whistle Bay is often named one of the world’s top beaches. The resort of the same name has eight rustic but elegant stone bungalows, each with a private bathroom, refrigerator, safe and wifi, and an eco-friendly glamping tent. The Salt Whistle Kitchen opens all day and serves Caribbean and international cuisine, and cocktails.
saltwhistlebay.com

Barbados

Infinity on the Beach

Doubles from $134 room-only)
This 66-room boutique hotel sits on the immaculate coral sands of Dover Beach. Premium rooms have unobstructed views of the Caribbean, while others offer garden or partial sea views. The bars and restaurants of St Lawrence Gap are within short walking distance, and visitors can catch buses to the famous Oistins Fish Fry and other south coast destinations close by. The hotel has its own restaurant and spa.
infinityonthebeach.com

South Gap Hotel

Doubles from $106 room-only
Perfectly positioned overlooking the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, South Gap is a recently renovated modern boutique hotel that offers easy access to Dover Beach and the sizzling nightlife of St Lawrence Gap. Each of the 34 rooms has a balcony with sea views, air-con, satellite TV and tasteful blue decor to suit the oceanside location. The rooms have kitchenettes, and there is a great poolside restaurant.
southgapbarbados.com

Union Island

The Islander’s Inn

Doubles from $90 room-only
One of a small selection of hotels on Union Island, Islander’s Inn offers modern and airy rooms with en suite bathrooms, free wifi and a balcony overlooking the sea. The restaurant serves continental breakfast, simple lunch and family-style Caribbean dinner prepared from local produce. There’s a lovely white sandy beach on the doorstep, and a little further you’ll find Sparrow’s Beach Club, where you can enjoy a French-influenced Caribbean lunch. Sparrows runs a free shuttle bus which drops (and collects) from anywhere on the island.
theislandersinn.com

St Vincent

Sunset Shores Beach Hotel

Doubles from $121 room-only
Family-owned Sunset Shores Beach Hotel sits on one of St Vincent’s few golden sand beaches. With three acres of tropical gardens and sweeping lawns, the property consists of 32 stylish modern rooms with air-con, en suite bathrooms and balconies with a sea or garden view. There are plenty of great restaurants within walking distance along the waterfront, and the hotel has its own excellent bar and restaurant overlooking the sea – settle in with a rum punch and watch the sunset.
sunsetshores.com

Fairview Guest House

Doubles from $69 B&B room-only
On a hill in New Montrose, a quiet residential neighbourhood close to sumptuous botanical gardens, Fairview is a traditional local guesthouse with a commanding view over St Vincent’s capital, Kingstown. Its six rooms are large and comfortable and have the feeling of a formal West Indian bedroom, with their polished dark wood furniture; but the bathrooms are modern and every room has air-con. Each morning, Cally, the wonderful chef and jack-of-all-trades, makes a delicious breakfast.
fairviewsvg.com

Tobago

Reef View Apartments

Doubles from $67 room-only
Located in the fishing village of Buccoo on Tobago’s south-west coast, Sonny and Patsy’s five spacious self-catering apartments are warm, welcoming and have a distinctly West Indian flair. Each unit has an enviable view of the sea surrounding the world-famous Buccoo Reef, with its dazzling sponges, hard corals and tropical fish, which Jacques Cousteau rated as the third most spectacular reef in the world. Also not to be missed is Buccoo’s Sunday-night street party, playfully called Sunday School; and, if you’re here at Easter, the Buccoo Goat Race, which started back in 1925.
reefviewapts.com

Hibiscus Golf Villas and Apartments

Doubles from $110 room-only
Perched on a lush hill overlooking the sea and surrounded by fruit trees, flowering shrubs and birdsong, this complex is built in the traditional West Indian vernacular style. It consists of a studio apartment and three spacious villas, all looking out on a gorgeous infinity pool, with the Caribbean shimmering in the distance. This quiet and secluded property is perfect for a peaceful retreat, but you will need a car or taxi if you want to explore the island. Owner Clinton Samuel is always happy to give guests a ride to the beach and back if time permits.
tobagohibiscusvillas.com

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